NEW YORK (Fortune) -- If your mailbox looks anything like mine
during the weeks before Christmas, it is overflowing with catalogs. Retailers
mailed out about 19 billion catalogs last year, according to the Direct
Marketing Association. Most of the paper in those catalogs - as much as
95% - comes from trees, and not recycled sources. And most catalogs
quickly wind up as trash. What a waste. Happily, that's
beginning to change, thanks in part to a pesky and persistent advocacy
group called ForestEthics which has persuaded a number of Fortune 500
companies to buy paper in ways that will preserve valuable forests.
In the last month or so, three big
retailers that mail out hundreds of millions of catalogs - Dell,
Williams-Sonoma and the Victoria's Secret unit of Limited Brands- have
pledged either to buy more recycled paper or to increase their
purchases of paper that comes from trees that are harvested in
sustainable ways. Others face pressure to follow. "We're looking
at L.L. Bean, Sears, Lands End, J.C. Penney, J. Crew - they're at the
top of our list," says Todd Paglia, the executive director of
ForestEthics. "This is an industry that is ripe for change." San
Francisco-based ForestEthics is small, when compared with better-known
green groups like the Nature Conservancy or Sierra Club. It has just 35
staff people and an annual budget of $2.6 million. Victoria's dirty secret But
companies that ignore ForestEthics do so at their peril. The group has
been cajoling and threatening big players in the catalog industry, and
last year it unleashed an unfriendly ad campaign
against Victoria's Secret. Its "Victoria's Dirty Secret" campaign used
scantily-clad models brandishing chain saws to make the point that the
390 million or so catalogs sent out each year by Victoria's Secret
require cutting down a lot of trees. But while ForestEthics and
Victoria's Secret battled in public, they negotiated in private. The
39-year-old Paglia met several times with Tom Katzenmeyer, a Limited
Brands senior vice president, and eventually he was invited to make his
case before the company's directors and its chief executive, Leslie
Wexner.
Last week, Victoria's Secret and
ForestEthics announced that the company's catalogs will in the future
use either 10 percent recycled paper or 10 percent paper from sources
certified as sustainable by the Forest Stewardship Council, an
independent group. (Sustainable means that logging practices will
preserve forests.) "We're hoping the logging, pulp and paper
industry will rise to the occasion," said Katzenmeyer of Limited
Brands, according to the Reuters news agency. The company also
said it would not buy paper from pulp mills that log endangered
portions of Canada's vast Boreal forest, which stretches across
northern Alberta and British Columbia. (ForestEthics has accused some
mills of disrupting caribou habitats, a charge strongly denied by the
Canadian paper industry.) Victoria's Secret also said it will donate $1
million towards research on endangered forests and report publicly on
its paper-buying practices. "This is a level of transparency you
don't see a lot in corporate America," Paglia said, and he wasn't
talking about the lingerie on the Victoria's Secret models. Dell
and Williams Sonoma haven't gotten as much attention for improving
their paper-buying practices despite the fact that they're going a lot
further. Neither was the target of a campaign, but Forest Ethics
consulted informally with both firms. A global standard Dell
said last month that its catalogs and marketing materials now use an
average of 50 percent recycled content, a target it had earlier
promised to hit by 2009. Dell has also promised to buy 25 percent of
its paper from sources certified by the Forest Stewardship Council. Its
policy can be found here. Williams-Sonoma
said that it will begin sourcing about 95% of its catalog paper from
FSC-certified sources. Forest Ethics initially criticized the company,
but they soon became allies. "There was a little bit of uneasiness when
we first met," said Pat Connolly, the firm's chief marketing officer,
"but they grew to understand that we had a lot of the same goals that
they do." Williams-Sonoma, for example, has used recycled pellets in
its packaging materials for years. All of this is good news for
the Forest Stewardship Council, which is competing with an
industry-backed group called the Sustainable Forestry Initiative to
become the most credible global standard for good environmental
practices in the paper industry. Do not mail Of
course, the best way to save more trees would be to keep more unwanted
mail out of our mailboxes, much as we have been able to cut down on
telephone sales pitches by signing up with a "do-not-call" registry. Several groups, including ForestEthics and the Center for a New American Dream,
want Congress to make it easier for people to keep unwanted mail out of
their homes with a "do not mail" list. Right now, you can opt out of
bulk mail through a website run by the Direct Marketing Association but it's not easy and it will cost you $1. You can also call retailers, and they will take your name off their lists. To
be fair, the DMA notes that shopping from home saves gasoline and cuts
pollution. That's true, but now that every big retailer also sells over
the Internet, you don't need catalogs to do that.
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